The definitive guide to London dining & events

Hoxton Grill

Date: 09.09.11 Category: Restaurant with bar Ambience: buzzy, rustic, relaxed,

As the groans subsided and he lent back, spent, he looked at me with eyes that were drooping under the weight of complete satisfaction, over a scene of disarray that spoke of the devouring that had just unfolded. Then, with a raspy voice laced with exhausted fulfilment, he said the sweet, sweet words we all yearn to hear: “That was the best I’ve ever had.” Now, quite frankly, does one strive for anything more?

I think not. It was thus with marginal disappointment that, in this moment of heady exuberance, when it happened to me this week, I could only respond in a muffled way through a mouthful of semi-chewed chips: “Me meever.” Because who knew? Who knew that when we walked in to the urban cool and buzzing Hoxton Grill, that right there, at our very table, we would have the best we’d ever had? I’m talking cheeseburger, of course – the very best cheeseburger we’d ever had.

The Hoxton Grill is owned by the same people behind Soho House Group –an operation known for serving good food, offering great service (once you’re welcomed into the inner circle that is) and a cool, buzzing ambience, across all of their venues. And Hoxton Grill fits into this mould perfectly.

There is nothing, however, of the ‘production line mould’ about this burger. The bun was soft, not soggy, and stayed holding its freight for the duration. The meat was beefy, juicy, tender, fresh. The cheese lubricated every mouthful without being greasy, over-powering or inconsequential. And, as - contrary to what any weener tries to tell you - size matters, the burger was of the perfect dimensions: big enough to be satisfying; not so big you’re overwhelmed.

So as BB and I sat in this unassuming but buzzing restaurant and bar, with its exposed brick, wooden stools, red leather banquets and low-hanging lights, we realised we had found ourselves a real gem - a local, neighbourhood place that we’d keep as our own little secret, well, nearly.

And something else occurred to me, too. BB – you may recall – got his name from being a brain-busker – by lodging himself in my every thought as our relationship blossomed - but now, with talk of perfect buns, the perfect mouthful and seductive beefiness, perhaps this acronym would be better assigned to Beef Burger?


THE ESSENTIALS

Hoxton Grill is a Soho House Group owned, neighbourhood restaurant in the heart of Shoreditch. With comfortable banquette seating in the American grill-style restaurant, a late-night bar, an informal lounge and outdoor space, it offers a relaxed but buzzing atmosphere well suited to dates and nights out with friends. The burger is not to be overlooked. Hoxton Grill is open Monday to Sunday from 7am until midnight.

 

Ratings
  • Service: 3 / 5
  • Food: 5 / 5
  • Value: 4 / 5
  • Atmosphere: 4 / 5
  • Loos: 3 / 5
What rocked

That would be the cheeseburger.

What shocked

I was told I was not allowed my burger medium rare for health and safety reasons. But fear not - it comes as it should.

Venue information
 

81 Great Eastern Street, London EC2A 3HU

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